Posted on: 2014-06-18 12:00 AM 
Café Gaúcho, at Rua São José, 86, in Rio's Centro (21-2533-9285), is a classic botequim. Get a cafezinho because you must but be sure to sample the classic sandwiches like pernil (marinated roast pork) and rib roast Or for a lighter snack, get the classic combination of media (cafezinho with milk) with pão na chapa com manteiga (grilled buttered bread) for under 3 reais.
Confeitaria Cavé, at Rua 7 de Setembro, 137, Centro (21-2221-0533;www.confeitariacave.com.br), is the oldest in Rio. The interior is a little cramped, and the fluorescent lights dispatch any remaining charm, but the cakes are delicious. Try the signature ratinho, a playful mouse-shaped pastry flavored with marzipan, or the succulent, eggy rabanada.
Also in Centro, at Rua Gonçalves Dias, 32, Confeitaria Colombo (21-2232-2300;www.confeitariacolombo.com.br) has been on every visitor's itinerary since it was founded in 1894. In the magnificent space, it's not hard to discern the echoes of generations enchanted by this city.
Armazém do Café is a local chain with eight locations in Rio. The original opened 10 years ago in Ipanema, at Rua Maria Quitéria, 77 loja G (21-2522-5039;www.armazemdocafe.com.br). Coffee blends reflect the range of beans available from different parts of Brazil, and the place is often hopping.
Largo das Letras, in a big mansion at Rua Almirante Alexandrino, 501 (21-2221-8992;www.largodasletras.com.br), epitomizes Santa Teresa's theatrical decay. Flip through a small but well-chosen collection of books about Brazilian history, art and culture, and sigh before the vista of Rio spread out below.
Some of the best espresso in Rio can be found at any of the three locations of Café Rubro. As you sit in the small, gleaming shop at Rua da Quitanda, 191, Centro (21-2516-0610; www.rubrocafe.com.br), coffee blenders are hard at work a few floors above you, in rooms rich with the earthy smell of green coffee from all over Brazil.
